Acrylic or polycarbonate?
Both are transparent, both look like "plexiglass" at first glance — and yet choosing the wrong one can be costly: a display case that yellows, a machine guard that shatters, a stand full of scratches. The real dilemma almost always comes down to this: do you want the best clear finish, or the best impact resistance?
A word on names: acrylic is commonly called plexiglas (or Plexiglass), but also acrylic glass, PMMA, poly(methyl methacrylate), Perspex, Lucite, Acrylite or Plaskolite — these are all the same material or acrylic trade names. Polycarbonate, for its part, sells under the names Lexan, Makrolon, Tuffak or simply PC. Whatever name you use, it's these two plastics we're talking about here.
The short answer
Acrylic (PMMA): optical clarity, gloss, engraving, colors, UV resistance — perfect for anything that has to look good. Polycarbonate (Lexan®): exceptional impact toughness, reliable in the cold — perfect for anything that has to take a hit.
See the geometry and surface detail
Photorealistic illustration. Appearance varies with the material, finish and lighting.
Why not just grab "the clear plastic"?
Because behind the same appearance hide two opposite behaviors. According to our data sheets, cast acrylic breaks at about 1% elongation — it's rigid and brittle, but its surface is harder and keeps its gloss. Polycarbonate, on the other hand, stretches to about 110% before failing: it bends, absorbs the impact and doesn't shatter, but its softer surface scratches faster.
Acrylic — the visual champion
- Superior transparency and gloss, crisp edges in laser cutting
- Very good UV resistance — suited to outdoor signage
- Offered at Laseo in clear (3, 4.5, 6, 9 and 12 mm), P95 matte and 7 colors (3 and 6 mm)
- Compatible with laser engraving and printed graphics
Polycarbonate — the impact champion
- Remarkable toughness, even in the deep Canadian cold
- Higher melting point (428 °F vs. 320 °F for acrylic)
- Offered at Laseo in transparent, from 3 to 12 mm
- Can be tapped directly (M4 to M10 and up, depending on thickness)
Which cutting process for each at Laseo?
A detail many people miss: these two plastics are not cut on the same machine.
Acrylic is cut on the CO2 laser, which melts the material cleanly and leaves smooth, crisp edges with no secondary work — a big advantage for visible parts. Cutting tolerance: ±0.009″.
Polycarbonate, on the other hand, is generally not laser-cut: the heat makes it yellow and degrades the edge. At Laseo, it's therefore cut by CNC routing, which gives clean edges and an even tighter tolerance of ±0.005″. Small holding tabs may remain around the perimeter — a light deburring removes them.
In both cases, parts can range from 1.000″ × 2.000″ up to 35.000″ × 47.000″.
Side-by-side comparison
| Criterion | Cast acrylic (PMMA) | Polycarbonate (PC) |
|---|---|---|
| Cutting process | CO2 laser | CNC routing |
| Cutting tolerance | ±0.009″ | ±0.005″ |
| Thicknesses offered | 3, 4.5, 6, 9, 12 mm (clear); 3 and 6 mm (colors, P95) | 3, 4.5, 6, 9, 12 mm (transparent) |
| Tensile strength | 10 ksi | 10 ksi (yield strength 9 ksi) |
| Elongation at break | ≈1% — breaks cleanly | ≈110% — bends without shattering |
| Density | 74.3 lb/ft³ | 74.9 lb/ft³ |
| Melting point | 320 °F | 428 °F |
| Surface | Harder, keeps its gloss | Softer, scratches faster |
| Outdoor / UV | Very good UV and weather resistance | Standard grades: may yellow in prolonged direct sun |
| Operations offered | Engraving, printed graphics | Tapping |
Values taken from our data sheets — see the acrylic and polycarbonate sheets for the detail by thickness.
The verdict, use by use
Display case, sign, stand, lettering
Acrylic. Superior clarity, flawless laser edges, engraving and colors available. It's the visual material, period.
Machine guard, debris shield, protective screen
Polycarbonate. Where a shard of acrylic would be a hazard, PC takes the hit and stays in place.
Anti-vandalism glazing, impact-risk areas
Polycarbonate. Its toughness (≈110% elongation before break) makes it the obvious choice when breaking isn't an option.
Outdoors in full sun, four seasons
Acrylic for UV resistance. Standard PC is fine indoors or in sheltered outdoor spots, otherwise it risks yellowing over time.
Transparent part with threaded holes
Polycarbonate. Direct tapping (M4 to M10 and up, depending on thickness) is offered — not on acrylic.
Machine window exposed to cold
Polycarbonate. It stays tough below zero, where acrylic becomes even more brittle.
And if your part doesn't need to be transparent?
For mechanical parts, wear strips or food-contact surfaces, the contenders are instead HDPE, UHMW and acetal (Delrin). We settle it in our guide HDPE vs. UHMW vs. acetal: which one to choose? You can also upload your drawing right now to get an instant quote in both materials and compare for yourself.
Your part, your choices, your price.
Configure one part or a series. See your price and lead time before ordering.
No account needed for pricing · Free shipping from $49